Note: I’ve used Moda Cross Weave in Sand for my neutral fabric. It has a linen-like look that I love. I use a best press product before cutting to give it a bit of stability and avoid fraying. I do not use spray during or after piecing, as it can shrink the fabric very slightly. WOF means width of fabric.
1. From the neutral fabric, cut (2) strips 1 1/4 x WOF for sashing.
Subcut (12) 1 1/4” x 2 1/2” strips.
Subcut (3) 1 1/4” x 10 3/4” strips.
2. Also from the neutral fabric, cut (2) strips 3 1/2” x WOF for borders.
Subcut (2) 3 1/2” x 10 3/4”.
Subcut (2) 3 1/2” x 16 3/4”.
Note: My finished pillow shows more embellishments than the tutorial photos below. Once I finished the top for the tutorial, I realized I loved the little flap and trim so much, I wanted more. I did some surgery on my top to open seams and add a few more flaps and bits of trim. Express your creative side and add as many prairie points, bits of trim and buttons as you’d like. And above all, HAVE FUN!
Use a 1/4” seam allowance unless otherwise noted.
1. Arrange your (16) 2 1/2” squares in a way that looks pleasing to your eye.
2. Create as many prairie points as you’d like for your pillow. (My finished pillow has three prairie points.) To create a prairie point, simply fold a 2 1/2” square twice on the diagonal and press well.
3. Position the raw edge of your prairie points to the top edge of select 2 1/2” squares. Also position bits of 2 1/2” trim to the top edge of select 2 1/2” square.
4. Sew the prairie points and bits of trim along the top edge of selected 2 1/2” squares using a 1/8” seam allowance.
5. Sew the four vertical rows together. Each row includes (4) 2 1/2” squares and (3) 2 1/2” x 1 1/4” sashing strips. Press toward the neutral.
6. Sew the four vertical rows together with (3) 10 3/4” x 1 1/4” vertical sashing strips. Press toward the neutral.
7. Sew the 3 1/2” x 10 3/4” borders to the left and right. Press toward the neutral.
8. Sew the 3 1/2” x 16 3/4” borders to the top and bottom. Press toward the neutral.
9. Layer your pillow top, batting, and muslin (scrap backing) using your preferred method of pinning, thread or spray basting. Since this is a small project, I found that fabric adhesive was enough to keep my quilt sandwich in place and flat during quilting.
10. I kept my quilting simple and used 1/4\” quilter\’s tape to mark my quilting lines. When you have finished the quilting, trim the backing and batting.
11. Add buttons if desired. The pillow top is now complete.
12. Using your two backing pieces, sew a 1/2\” seam on the right edge of one piece and a 1/2\” seam on the left edge of the other piece. These two pieces will overlap in the middle and need finished edges.
13. Lay the pillow top right side down on your cutting mat. Then lay down the two backing pieces right side up. Overlap the two backing pieces so that when overlapped, the backing measures 16 3/4\” wide. Adjust the backing pieces slightly to make sure all outside edges line up nicely. Pin around all four sides. Using a 1/8” seam allowance, sew a basting stitch around all four sides. This will keep everything in place for binding.
14. Bind your pillow as you would normally bind a small quilt. (I use 2 1/4” strips for quilts, but 2 1/2” strips for pillows.)
15. Insert your pillow form, and you are done!
Please share your version on Instagram using the hashtag #lovenotespillow and be sure to tag me @taunjalynn so I see your creation!